HOW TO HANG STANDARD WALLPAPERS

For the tools you may need check out the list at the bottom (you’ll most likely own most of them!)  Take time to read the instructions before starting any work.  These instructions apply to pre-pasted and regular wallpapers.  The hints and tips cover all wallpapers.

1. Getting Ready.

Strip any old wallpaper from the wall completely – check walls are sound clean and dry, never hang wallpaper on a damp wall. 

Fill in and smooth any cracks or holes.

If hanging onto new plaster, 'prime' the wall – this means apply diluted paste containing a fungicide and allow drying – the instructions for this are on most paste packets.  Allow the 'primered' wall to dry completely.

Complete painting of all woodwork and ceilings – it is easier to wipe paste from paint than to wipe paint from wallpaper!

2. How to cut paper.

It’s best to cut several lengths before pasting

Make marks along the edge of a pasting table about 12” apart – join these marks with a pencil line – this will help you measure paper lengths easily without a ruler.

To each full length (this is the height from skirting board to ceiling) add 4”-5”

If using a design with a pattern repeat, allow enough extra length on each piece to ensure that the pattern matches in sequence.

Roll up any cut unpasted lengths and number them to avoid mistakes.

3. Where to start and finish.

Always start at the main window (1) and work towards the longest unbroken wall.  Then go back to work on the other side of the window (13) as this helps avoid “shadow lines” if you have to overlap anywhere.

On chimney breasts it is always best to centre a piece in the middle (18) .

4. Getting started.

The key to a perfect finish is to hang your first piece of paper perfectly straight.  Measure the width of paper less ½”, from the centre of the window frame and mark the wall.

Hang a plumb line from the ceiling over your mark.  Make several dots behind the plumb line and join up using a rulers.  This is the line to which you’ll hang your first piece of paper.

Unroll your first piece of paper on the paste table face down.  If using pre-pasted wallpaper see note below.

Align with the edge of the table allowing for very slight overlap to keep paste off the table.

Load brush with paste and wipe off surplus on edge of the bucket.  Paste evenly down the centre length of the paper.  Brush out towards the edge.  Pull pasted part to overhang front while you paste the rest.

If using a pre-pasted paper, then immerse in water and soak as per label instructions. Then follow the next steps.

Fold in half the end, which is to be at the bottom of the wall, paste side to paste side.  Then fold the top section to the middle.  Leave to soak as per instructions on the roll label – this is called “booking” a paper.

Once “booked” take hold of the top corners, press the paper to the wall, starting at the top angle of wall and ceiling (allowing 2” for overlap).  Slide the piece to meet your plumb line.  Smooth down the middle of the paper with a wallpaper brush, then outwards to the edges.  Open the bottom fold and continue smoothing.

Run the back of the scissors along the angle of the ceiling.  Peel back and cut along the crease line.  Smooth into place.  Check for and smooth out any air bubbles.

Then hang the next length matching the pattern and making a good “butt join” – this is where the too pieces meet and do not overlap, but instead butt together.  Immediately wipe off any excess with a damp sponge.

You can then repeat the process!!

Wallpaper Tips

1. Wallpapering around corners.

Corners are never exactly vertical.  Always hang the paper in two parts when papering into a corner.  Measure from the last piece hung into the corner in about 3 places.  Cut the width of the paper to the largest of these dimensions and add about ½”.  Hang and trim this length smoothing paper around the corner.  Ensure edge butts exactly against the piece already hung without overlap.

Mark a new plumb line vertically- but to fit the width of the remaining piece of cut paper.  Hang the right side to the plumb line.  It will of course overlap in the corner – but discreetly.

2. Papering window recesses.

Follow the order show in the illustration when papering into a window recess.  Allow small overlaps where the dotted line indicates.  Cut a special length for piece3 with enough  for a small overlap at the front and side, which is tucked behind pieces 1 and 4 (for vinyl papers you may need to use a vinyl to vinyl adhesive.

3. Papering round a door.

Paste and hang a full width.  Cut away surplus to within 1” of the frame edge.  Cut diagonally at the top corner.  Push the overlaps top and side into the edge of the frame with your brush.  Mark with the back of scissors, pull back and trim to the mark, then smooth back.

4. Switches and sockets

The power supply should be switched off.  Then paste down over the obstruction.  Push scissors through paper at the centre of the switch socket and cut diagonally to beyond the corners.  Fold back, score and trim.  Smooth down.  If you prefer the flaps can be trimmed but leaving ½” to tuck behind the switch plate, after loosening the screws.

5. Radiators

Cut away the surplus so as to leave 6”-9” for tucking down behind the radiator, top edge first, then the sides. Use a stick, wrapped and padded with cloth, to smooth the paper into place behind the radiator.

6. External corners.

In the illustration below, hang piece number 1 to fit to the edge of the external corner.  Cut piece number 2 to jut beyond this corner by ½”.  Fold overlap around the corner when hanging.

7. Other useful tips

Tie a refuse bag to the edge of the paste table to hold all those small sticky off-cuts.

Ensure your hands are clean at all times.  Grubby fingers can leave marks when they are wet with paste.

Don’t worry if the paper bubbles slightly after hanging – it will usually dry flat.  The drying process is dependent upon ambient room conditions.  It can sometimes take up to a week for a paper to dry out, and bubbles to disappear.

It’s best not to overlap papers, except into the corners, and at those points an overlap adhesive should be used.

8. Tools you may need.

HOW TO HANG PASTE THE WALL WALLPAPER

Quick:
You won't believe how quickly you can change a room with ‘Paste the wall’. Measure 50cm from a corner and mark a vertical straight line on the wall to line up your first sheet of paper. Use a roller to evenly paste where the first length of wallpaper will hang. Make sure you use plenty of paste and that the pasted area is slightly wider than the width of the roll.

Clean:
No fuss, no mess. Just pick up a roll and go. Slide the paper into position with one edge against your vertical line on the wall. The other edge will wrap around the corner by 2cm. Smooth it down with a damp sponge or brush. Don't worry about small blisters - they'll disappear when the paper dries.

TIP:
For extra speed you can cut all your lengths of paper first. If there are two of you one can paste and one can hang.

Easy:
Trim the top and bottom with sharp scissors or a straight edge and craft knife. Then repeat all 3 steps for each strip making sure the pattern matches and the edges are tight together - it really is that easy.

TIP:
A change of scene has never been easier - to remove, lift a bottom corner and peel steadily up.

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